We dined at Hickory’s Smokehouse and got a taste of the Deep South in Derby

There is something about dark winter nights that has me craving hearty food.

Despite the blazing winter sun that had me wishing I had my sunglasses, it was still deceptively cold when I visited Hickory’s Smokehouse in Derby.

The restaurant has been on my list of places to visit since it opened over the summer last year.

Read more: Food and drink in Derby

The terracotta building standing tall feels like a welcoming beacon for weary, hungry travellers, which is exactly what I felt after a full-on few days sorting household chores, juggling personal writing deadlines, and more.

The first thing that hits you is the customer service. The concierge provided the warmest of welcomes, which had me wondering if we were long-lost friends that I had forgotten about. 

Cute wooden tables and actual window shutters meant the interior felt like a jazzed-up version of Charles Ingall’s farm complex from Little House On The Prairie.

In an age where budgets are squeezed, free popcorn was a surprise at our table, but provided fistfuls of sweet and salty goodness nonetheless.

Being a smokehouse, the focus is on smoked meats such as slow-smoked Texas-style brisket and Memphis-style baby back ribs. 

The very varied menu serves dishes such as streaky bacon breakfast muffins for brunch, sausage gumbo stews and buttermilk chicken burgers for mains, and sides of garlic mushrooms and Tater Tots.

I was in a jaunty mood, so I ordered a ‘hard’ milkshake because I am easily swayed by the sunshine and warm vibes from the staff.

Rum fudge milkshake was a dessert and alcoholic drink all rolled into one. 

Bayou spiced rum with hints of allspice berries, comforting vanilla, and luxurious maple was an excellent choice of shot to bring the party to an otherwise benign milkshake.

For the main I chose classic mac 'n' cheese which came with house salad, South Carolina dressing, and house slaw.

Melted cheese and pasta is always going to be appreciated, but even more so on a chilly winter's day.

The bacon crumb gave the dish a sense of occasion and perhaps a festive feel, with its flecks of red on the bubbling cheese surface.

The portion size was impressive and so big, that I only managed a quarter and had to pack the rest to take home (I blame the milkshake for that). 

My dining partner had smoked brisket sub.

Tender slivers of brisket slathered in pepper sauce and melted cheese was a hit with him. 

The additional pot of Texas gravy was also a good option to get dunking.

I don't know why I ordered a side dish at the beginning of the meal, but if I had known just how full I would be, I think I would have refrained.

Fried pickles were encased in a light batter and even more scrumptious when dunked into the accompanying South Carolina BBQ dip.

The meal was very filling, so what I would suggest, is to arrive at the restaurant very hungry to finish everything.

Customer service is one of the best I have experienced in Derby. 

The food and drink, which should have been the main focal point, was also very good, but it is how I was made to feel, which propelled my visit from great to amazing-can-I-move-in-and-be-a-permanent-resident.

Hickory’s has a large menu, so it is no surprise that I look forward to exploring more dishes. 

I have my eye on the Kentucky Cream milkshake, which I imagine will be amazing in the summer.

Classic mac 'n' cheese £14.50

Smoked brisket sub £16.99

Rum Fudge Hard milkshake £9.25

Driftaway IPA £5.50

Total £46.24

Address: Swarkestone Road, Chellaston, Derby DE73 5UE